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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
00:14 Why system boards?
00:48 Underclings and footwork efficiency
03:24 Unequal finger vs shoulder strength
05:22 External rotators and scapular form
09:02 Creating balanced shoulders to rip off holds
12:10 Training abs vs core for roof climbing
16:51 Functional example of front-lever movement
19:45 Shoulder awareness in disadvantaged positions
23:56 Big reachy move technique and safety
28:30 Getting everything out of holds
31:05 Like the video if you want more!

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 107
AOC Episode: 6

Climb: BFF Fundamentals
Climber: Joyce BFF Fundamentals V3 - Joyce @__bringsmejoy.MOV
Grade: V3
Notes:
The match there is going to load the forearms more than the lats would, just like how narrow pulls can
Transitions into reachy moves that will require good shoulder stability and lat activation
Practice alternate footwork to make the climb a bit easier

Climb: Dark Energy
Climber: Aidan
Grade: V11
Notes:
Great example of some wonderful strength to weight ratio and contact strength. Flying around the wall with just pure forearm and finger strength. Not sure about the technique if he could have kept his feet on the wall better but hey, he sent, that’s what matters.

The last move is nuts. Such a wide span with his farms and great ability to change the left hand from a straight downpull to a side catch to create opposition. Great reactions, great contact strength, and body to weight ratio. Training Tip: contact strength

The wide position means that scapula retractors (rhomboids, mid / low scap) for example will be lengthened and in a weakened position. This also means that there will be a chance of less stability in the shoulders (posterior delt


Climb: Moon is Believing
Climber: Kai Ohki
Grade: 8A
Notes:
There’s this exercise I nickname the “no pyramid” it’s a relatively easy exercise… if you do it wrong. It’s quite challenging if you do it correct. It works the external rotators in this exact position and helps create stability when working cross moves like this. Training Tip: “no pyramid” serratus flexion with external rotation (band at wrists or hands)

Climb: The Tell-Tale Heart
Climber: Florian
Grade: 7A
Notes:
Really cool final move. The position he is in creates a lot of internal rotation so he is definitely using the pec major, subscapularis, and of course the lats. But, this needs to be countered by something aka the external rotators. If you’re lacking strength in this muscle group it can absolutely increase your injury risk. Hence, the importance of ER strengthening.

Climb: dddd60
Climber: Dustin Dunkin
Grade:
Notes:
I just immediately loved this because what the heck, is that really 70 degrees?! That’s madness. Also… he does like 17 moves and hasn’t gone anywhere haha, what a fun climb :)

Lot’s of skills used here, starting off double undercling, bicycle move, some deadpointing. I was just waiting for the double bathang off the top…

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/t...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk.

// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt

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