I surfed an spot down south who's name I cannot utter, it is Voldemort of surf breaks. You'll probably recognize it though. I'm kidding by the way.

The footage is my entire session from start to finish. I sped up the parts where I'm paddling and sitting but will play in real time myself positioning, catching, and surfing the wave. While the session plays out, I have two stories for you. One might be a little boring, the second one isn't. Let me know if you like this type of content. If you don't want to listen to the stories or you hate my voice, just mute it. :) Watching the entire session is helpful if you are at this stage of progression.

For beginners and intermediates, pay attention to me moving around and also fighting the current. There is a drift north so you will see me constantly paddling south. But in doing so, I'm being very proactive. I don't ever wait for waves to come to me, you have to position yourself to maximize the return on investment. But also having said that, I did miss the best wave by moving too far south at one point. :( Net win though, caught a few open faces.

Surfer: 5'8" 145lbs | 172cm 66kg
Age: 54 :(
Surfboard: 5'4 Firewire Mashup
Fins: NVS Taylor Knox 2+1
Traction: FCS Toledo
Leash: DaKine
Wetsuit: Volcom 3/2 Modulator