Turtuk, nestled amidst the grandeur of the Himalayas, was once a part of Gilgit Baltistan under Pakistan's control until 1971. Following a significant turn of events, found place on the Indian map overnight. This northernmost village of India boasts of lush green fields, meandering streams, vibrant flowers and a community steeped in the Balti heritage originating from Gilgit Baltistan.

in the last leg of our Ladakh Food Tour, we had the privilege of joining Rashidullah, a spirited hospitality entrepreneur from the region for a farm to table Balti food experience at one of his restaurant The Balti Farm. His professional journey began with a leading Japanese beverage firm but he returned to his homeland after a short stint and started his own enterprise in the hospitality sector with the Turtuk Holiday Resort.

The outdoor setup resembling a traditional home kitchen. Under the expert hands of Zanab ji, the menu came to life with classics like baleh, kissir, tukbo papa, grangthur, moskot and phading, each dish a testament to the region's rich culinary heritage.

The food, though simple, resonated deeply, speaking volumes about the resilient spirit of Turtuk's inhabitants. Every bite transported us deeper into the unique flavors and traditions of Balti cuisine.

In the evening we convened once more beside the crackling wood-fired oven to craft the iconic chorbat biryani, a regional delicacy. Rashidullah, with a gleam of nostalgia, unveiled his cherished family recipe. This rendition boasted a subtle elegance, characterized by the absence of aromatic spices and an abundance of seasonal vegetables and fragrant herbs.

Amidst the aroma of this biryani, Rashidullah and his childhood friend, Ali, shared fond recollections associated with this dish. Not only was the biryani light and flavourful it was a testament to Rashidullah's remarkable cooking prowess. The absence of overpowering spices allowed the natural taste of the ingredients to shine through.


About the host:
https://anubhavsapra.com/

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Text by Swetaleena Nayak