The living fort - Jaisalmer (Jaisalmer fort)
Built-in 1156 by the king Rawal Jaisal, the fort has a population of around 5,000 people - mostly descendants of Brahmin and Rajput families who once lived here
Silence. The predominant aura around any fort is the quietude. Save the flutter of pigeons, the only sound is the echo of your own voice. But the magnificent Jaisalmer Fort in Rajasthan is nothing like that. A row of tiny shops selling trinkets near the main gate does give you that regular fort feeling, but once you pass the boundary walls, there is the buzz of a lively market, the familiar sights and sounds of home - clothes being put out to dry, children running around, the occasional whistle of a pressure cooker. The Jaisalmer Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is India's only 'living' fort. Built-in 1156 by the king Rawal Jaisal, the fort has a population of around 5,000 people - mostly descendants of Brahmin and Rajput families who once lived here.

As we navigate the narrow lanes, a bustling city comes alive. Shops lure you with fossil stone cups that promise to set curd without culture, camel leather bags, miniature paintings (with live demonstrations), lahariya saris, patchwork bedspreads with traditional motifs of elephants. The quadrangle at the fort's center could be any market square in any Indian town. Signboards point to hotels, cafes selling fresh juice.

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